The number one rule with skin care is that you have to stick with it, you cannot skip steps or "ease up". If you skip steps, your skin will notice and you will pay the price. After that golden rule, the number one rule is wash your face twice a day. Make up remover wipes don't count, and I find that they often leave a residue on your skin which, for some, can clog pores. If you really want to get on the road to clear skin, scrubbing your face twice a day is an absolute must. This goes for when you're home sick, too. I know it's awful, but try to wash your face, at least once a day, even if you're feeling awful. It will make a difference. If you have drier skin and you think that washing twice a day will dry you out too much, use a cream based face wash in the mornings and a gel or foaming face wash at night when you're taking off your make up. The bottom line is to always have a clean face.
Beyond washing your face like a crazy person, there are several other "rules" that should be followed. The first of these is exfoliation. Exfoliation is necessary whether you have oily skin or dry skin-a case can be made for both that each needs it more than the other, but every body reacts to exfoliators differently. For some, a traditional exfoliator, like a face scrub (Noxzema Clean Blemish Control Daily Scrub), can be too much, so an exfoliating toner or treatment with AHA's or LHA's (alpha hydroxy acids) may be preferred. The big thing about selecting an exfoliator is choosing one that works with your skin, not against it. If you have sensitive skin, and you want a traditional scrub, look for a scrub with very fine, uniform (in size) exfoliators. Stay far far away from scrubs with "natural" exfoliating beads (like St. Ives Apricot scrub) or scrubs with large exfoliating beads. The "natural" ones are ground up pieces of apricot pits or other rough substances and the edges can be very sharp, which can tear your pores and leave micro-cuts on your skin. When looking for an AHA type exfoliator, look for a gel or some toners have "exfoliating" properties. I prefer to use Ole Henricksen's invigorating night gel, which has AHA in it. I use this every night, so this is mild enough of an exfoliator to be used daily.
A lot of people say a toner is a necessity, and I'm not terribly sure that I'm one of them, although I have used toners in the past. People will tell you that a toner is necessary to balance out the pH of your skin, which I think is bullshit. I use Noxzema triple clean anti-blemish pads to act as a sort of toner/acne treatment. I use these typically only at night, as they can be quite strong with the astringent that's on them. I will say that these knock out oil and bacteria quite well. For the most part, I find that lots of toners leave a film on the skin that almost serves as a barrier, which doesn't let anything in as far as treatments go. There are a few really good ones out there though. The Neutrogena Black head removing astringent is great, and one of the only ones I really recommend as having long term and short term results. I don't think you need to use toner twice a day, as it can dry your skin out quite a bit. I prefer to use it only at night, as this is when your skin can really absorb all treatments and regenerate and heal.
Blemish treatment is something that is crucial for just about everyone I know, even people who only break out around "that time of the month" or when they're stressed. It's important to apply these to your face immediately after washing and using your toner and before you apply your moisturizer. I use a variety of different spot treatments, and it really depends on your skin what will work for you. Benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid are the two most common over the counter (and prescription) spot treatments, but many people find that they are allergic to one or the other. Personally, I have never had any reaction to either, and use them both in my routine. Benzoyl peroxide can cause increased sensitivity to sunlight and sun damage, so I only use it at night. I use a salicylic acid treatment in the morning and at night, over the benzoyl peroxide treatment. It's really important that you apply treatment to the blemishes only, using it all over your face can cause over drying to occur.
Moisturizer is one of those things that you need, but a lot of us use the wrong ones. First, let me just say that just because you have oily skin does not mean you should be scrimping on moisturizer. It's actually been proven that if you strip your skin of too much moisture, your body will start producing more oil to try to even out the balance. Producing more oil leads to even oilier skin. The key is to use the right kind of moisturizer so that you keep your skin balanced and don't add too much or take too much away. A safe bet is an oil free moisturizer with spf in it for day time, because you're covering all your bases. People with oily skin may not want to apply a moisturizer at night, which is okay, but I find that even the oiliest skins get dry sometimes, so it's a good idea to have a slightly thicker oil free cream for night time use, especially in the winter. I love Clinique Moisture Surge and Ole Henricksen vitamin plus for both of those occasions.
Your skin will only be as good as you treat it. If you don't start taking care of it early, you'll be left facing premature aging, sun damage and more. Sunscreen is an absolute must, and no, having spf in your moisturizer or foundation does not cut it. You must reapply sunscreen every 2-3 hours in order for it to make any kind of difference. If you don't want to mess up your make up, several companies have come out with translucent powder formulas, like Peter Thomas Roth. I carry mine around in my purse at all times so I always have some with me. If you make a concerted effort to take care of your skin-washing, treating, soothing-you will see a huge difference. With skin, nothing happens over night, you really have to stick with a routine or regimen for more than a month to see results. You really have to concentrate on building the skin care into your daily routine so that it becomes a habit. Listen to your skin-it will tell you when it's dry or too oily or needs a little extra tlc. And when you find what works, stick to it.
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